Протоиерей Николай ДОНЕНКО
Людмила ЯСЕЛЬСКАЯ

В 15 км от Судака в сторону Феодосии, в живописнейшем месте, называемом путешественниками прошлого века "Крымской Швейцарией", расположено урочище Кизилташ. Вершины Кизилташских гор, напоминающие усеченные пирамиды, длинной сплошной грядой видны почти со всего Судакского шоссе. Урочище окружено огромными красными скалами, от которых происходит его название (Кизилташ по-татарски "красный камень"). Место это уникально во многих отношениях. [simage=4130,max,n,center,] Здесь природа не поскупилась на дары: горные склоны вокруг урочища покрыты лесами из дуба пушистого, дуба скального и граба обыкновенного, часто встречаются реликтовые растения, занесенные в Красные книги: можжевельник высокий, фисташка ту полистная, многие виды орхидей. В этой красивой, почти замкнутой горной котловине, бьет небольшой сероводородный источник.

Но не только природными богатствами и красивыми видами славился Кизилташ. В этом благословенном месте, название которого мало что говорит современному читателю, по преданию, в VIII в. н. э. находилась летняя резиденция сурожского архиепископа, защитника иконопочитания святого Стефана.

После блаженной кончины св. Стефана погребли в алтаре сурожского Софийского собора. Когда впоследствии этот собор был переделан в мечеть, верующие укрыли мощи от поругания. Местонахождение их неизвестно до сих пор.

Житие св. Стефана повествует, что через несколько лет после его кончины в Сурож пришло русское войско, командовал которым некий князь Бравлин. После десятидневной осады Сурож пал. Выломав железные ворота, воины ворвались в город. Вооруженный князь вошел в храм св. Софии и снял богато украшенный покров с гроба святого. В тот же момент он упал, шея его искривилась, изо рта пошла пена.

Другой источник сообщает нам, что лицо князя было повернуто назад невидимым ударом. По просьбе князя преемник св. Стефана, епископ Филарет, окрестил его, и князь тотчас же исцелился. Все похищенное было возвращено, пленные сурожане отпущены, а княжеские бояре приняли Святое Крещение.

Память о св. Стефане Сурожском всегда была жива в наших краях. В приписке к греческому синаксарию XIIXIII вв. говорится, что "15 декабря празднуется смерть св. Стефана исповедника архиепископа Сугдейского, потому что просветил Сугдейцев и сделал христианами".

В честь памяти выдающегося защитника иконопочитания в 1858 г. архиепископом Херсонским и Таврическим Иннокентием был основан Кизилташский мужской монастырь, но место это было почитаемо христианским населением Крыма задолго до открытия обители. В скале, подле которой находился монастырь, есть пещера клинообразной формы, с двумя отверстиями, называемая Священной (второе, менее употребительное ее название - Целебный источник). Из верхнего отверстия в пещеру падала вода, образуя небольшой бассейн, из которого вытекал ручеек. Бассейн был отделан обожженным кирпичом. Пещера служила часовней, а находящаяся в конце ее каменная плита с высеченным ликом какого-то святого, по-видимому, св. Стефана, заменяла алтарь.

Еще одна пещера, Разбойничья, в 40-х годах XIX в. служила убежищем крымскому Робину Гуду - Алиму-разбойнику. Об этом повествуют Н. Маркс и К. Арцеулов в "Легендах Крыма".

Архиепископ Иннокентий, интересовавшийся древними христианскими сооружениями, указывал на развалины церкви во имя Иоанна Предтечи неподалеку от монастырской усадьбы. При постройке монастыря в середине XIX в. монахи видели там большой камень кубической формы с изображением креста на одной из сторон. Предполагалось, что это престол. А на дне глубокого потока, омывавшего киновию с запада, тогда же обнаружили часть мраморной колонны с изображением лика одного из апостолов.

Надо отметить, что территория монастыря св. Стефана Сурожского по ряду причин не изучалась археологами, поэтому не приходится говорить о точных датировках. Неизвестно, к какому времени относились своеобразный храм в пещере и указанные святителем Иннокентием развалины церкви Иоанна Предтечи. Вокруг монастыря находились десятки средневековых поселений, большинство из которых ученые относят к VIII-XV вв. н. э., т.е. летняя резиденция сурожского архиепископа вполне могла здесь существовать. Позже, на рубеже IX-X вв., во время нашествия печенегов, жизнь на средневековых поселениях замирает. В XIII в. Крым становится одним из улусов (провинций) Золотой Орды с наместником в Солхате (ныне г. Старый Крым). В конце XIII в. наместник золотоордынского хана уступает всю Отузскую долину венецианцам. Это подтверждают находки: в 1954 г. при строительных работах на территории бывшего монастыря был найден бронзовый фигурный сосуд-водолей для омовения рук в виде бюста юноши, скорее всего, итальянской работы. Такие сосуды употреблялись и в церквах, и в быту феодалов. В 1365 г. эти места были захвачены генуэзцами. Совсем недалеко от Кизилташа, на месте нынешней Щебетовки, находилось одно из генуэзских поселений. Во второй половине XV в. отношения между генуэзцами и Крымским ханством обостряются, поселения приходят в упадок и прекращают свое существование. На их местах возникают небольшие татарские деревушки. После присоединения Крыма к России в одной только Отузской долине насчитывалось около тридцати деревень.

К середине XIX в., когда начала образовываться киновия, положение изменилось незначительно, и подавляющую часть местного населения составляли мусульмане. Христианские святыни долгое время находились в забвении, да и не удивительно: только после драматического переселения христиан из Крыма в Приазовье в 1778 г. были заброшены десятки действующих храмов, а о восстановлении древних святынь не могло быть и речи.

В 20-х годах XIX в. татарский пастух из с. Отузы (ныне Щебетовка), пас стадо неподалеку от скалы. Зайдя в пещеру, где он часто укрывался от непогоды, пастух с удивлением обнаружил плавающую в источнике деревянную икону Божией Матери. Взяв образ, татарин по дороге домой встретил на отузской дороге едущего из Судака в Феодосию грека-купца по фамилии Пластара, и, рассказав о случившемся, отдал ему свою находку. Пластара, прибыв в Феодосию, передал икону протоиерею Иосифу. Впоследствии эта икона находилась в монастырской церкви св. Стефана, с южной стороны, вблизи иконостаса, ее украсили серебряной позолоченной ризой. Нынешнее местонахождение этой святыни неизвестно.

Слухи о чудесной находке распространились среди населения, и пещеру с источником стали посещать богомольцы, число которых со временем все увеличивалось. По праздником приглашенные священники служили в пещере молебны. Первоначально праздновали преимущественно Успение Божией Матери и день св. Николая 9 мая, а позже и в другие дни по мере сбора богомольцев производились богослужения.

Такой религиозный подъем начался около 1825 г. В 1830-х годах здесь поселилась болгарская девушка Константина из с. Кишлав (ныне с. Курское Белогорского района) и жила в пещере в одиночестве и молитве. Константине пришлось покинуть Кизилташ, когда там основалась киновия во имя св. Стефана Сурожского. Отшельница переселилась ближе к родным местам, выкопала себе землянку у источника св. преподобномученицы Параскевы, и долго жила здесь одна, а соседи-болгары приносили ей скудное пропитание. Впоследствии к ней присоединились несколько женщин, и здесь основалась как бы киновия - прообраз будущей обители.

В начале 1850 г. в Крым, привлеченные слухами о святом целебном источнике, пришли два странника - бывший крепостной крестьянин из Калужской губернии Андроник и отставной вахмистр Пантелеймон, и поселились неподалеку от пещеры, устроив себе временное жилище. Деятельный Андроник быстро познакомился и сблизился в местным православным населением, и, благодаря своей крестьянской практичности, устраивал сложные сделки. Он уговорил кизилташского землевладельца доктора Виноградова продать участок земли в 157 десятин действительному статскому советнику Матфею Ивановичу Кашкадамову, после чего убедил последнего переуступить эту землю (видимо, ниже первоначальной стоимости) в пользу будущей киновии. Большую помощь в этой сделке оказал Владыка Иннокентий: из своих средств выделил деньги для приобретения этого участка, а позже способствовал скорейшему законодательному утверждению этой сделки. На этом участке, состоящем в основном из неудобий, впоследствии и был построен монастырь.

***

3 153 thoughts on “Кизилташский Свято-Стефано-Сурожский монастырь

  1. Жаль,что 36 лет назад,не знал,что служу в таком удивительном и святом месте.Службу проходил в бункере всего в 100 метрах от монастыря,узел связи там находился.Недавно посетил те места,мечтаю приехать ещё и привезти туда внуков.

  2. Это возвращение в детство. Особенно хороша фотография школы. Спасибо Ирине Качановой. 2011 год. Этим летом собираюсь побывать в Кизилташе. Старкова Люба.

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